A while back, a mate and I decided to head from Adelaide out towards the area known locally as the 'Iron Triangle'. This area covers Port Augusta, Whyalla and Iron Knob but our trip was also to include an overnight stay at Lake Gilles CP, just north-east of Kimba. We were initially setting out to locate the myall population of Thick-billed (Western) Grasswren but we'd also hoped to spring upon some other west-coast locals such as Rufous Treecreeper, Western Yellow Robin and Blue-breasted Fairywren.
The area is a pretty easy 3-4 hour drive north of Adelaide. A first-time visitor to this area would be well advised to stop in at Telowie Gorge and Mambray Creek if they were fond of spectacular views, wildlife and solitude. Nice spots, yes.
But we weren't stopping, our first port of call, as it were, was Port Augusta. I knew Mike was keen to get out to Whyalla and Iron Knob to get onto the Grasswrens, a new tick for him since their recent split. But I was curious to check a stretch of road north of Port Augusta called 'Yorkeys Crossing'. Mike didn't need too much convincing so we headed out past the Arid Lands Botanic Garden and onto this section of well-made gravel road. The road weaves its way through bluebush plains, salt lakes and some more wooded areas featuring the Acacia species known as 'Western Myall'. It's a great mix of vegetation types and arid habitats of the far north, all laid out in a convenient, smallish block, not too far from Adelaide.
In no time we had stopped for our first small flock of Zebra Finch and then we spied a smaller Pipit-like bird darting for cover. Without any tall cover about to take refuge in, we had an idea that we may be looking for a Rufous Fieldwren. With some patient stalking (and Mike's more seasoned guidance....) we were afforded great views of this spectacular little bird within a few minutes. A 'lifer' for me and a great start to the trip! Along the first 5km's or so of this road we saw/heard a half dozen or more of these birds, it was a real treat to find them in country that most people would dismiss as a wasteland. In this 'wasteland' we also got great views of other aridland specialists such as; Southern Whiteface, Budgerigar, Cockatiel, Blue Bonnet, Black-faced Woodswallow, White-backed Swallow and Chirruping Wedgebill. The Chirruping Wedgebill's were the main reason why I had wanted to search this area, another 'lifer' for me, it was great to see these birds so easily. We had found a small party of them halfway along the road where the sparse vegetation and saltpans gives way to more 'generous' vegetation. In all, we saw around 35 species in this section alone which gave us plenty of 'pep' for the next leg of the trip.
The next stop on our way was at Whyalla Conservation Park. Western (Thick-billed) Grasswren had been found at this park in the past so we thought it would be worth checking out on our way south-west. Within a few brief minutes and barely 500 metres into the park we had our first glimpse of Redthroat, with a bit of a chase and some hide and seek we got a decent view of a single bird. Nice! Then we set our minds to deciphering a mix of Variegated and Blue-breasted Fairywrens that proceeded to dart and squeak their way around us, sending us in all directions to get better views of them. For all of our efforts, I was not convinced we had seen the BBFW's we were trying to find. I am hopeless when attempting to distinguish between female Fairywren's, Mike was determined but I was frazzled....just give me a lurid-looking Male standing atop a conveniently located bush for goodness sake!
We did see some other great birds in this park including; Port Lincoln Parrot, White-winged Fairywren, Variegated Fairywren, Splendid Fairywren, Grey Butcherbird, Crested Bellbird, Chestnut-rumped Thornbill and one very "bleached blonde" looking Emu with young. We did a spot of searching around "Wild Dog Hill" (name???) within the park for our Grasswrens but to no avail. Onward....
I had a tip from an SA Museum volunteer whom I met on the APY Lands that the road between Whyalla and Iron Knob was crawling with Grasswrens. I assured Mike, who at this stage was looking a little worried, that I had a highway full of birds waiting for him. We must have stopped and started the car 20 or 30 times along this one miserable stretch of road! We had views of just about every bloody Fairywren known to man but not a Grasswren in sight. Along this stretch of road, anywhere that trees gave way to a monoculture of bluebush we saw and heard more and more Rufous Fieldwren. So, our last site that we had any hope of finding them was just outside of Iron Knob. Pressing on....
"What's wrong with you boy-o? This road is teeming with Grasswrens!"
At Iron Knob we turned onto the main highway and drove south-west for about 500 metres or so before turning off onto the road that leads to Mount Ive Station. On this stretch of road we finally hit paydirt, as it were...but not without the relief and joy being a little tainted. We did finally find our Western Grasswren but it had a couple of barely or newly fledged young with it that we soon realised we were almost standing upon. One of the poor beggars hadn't even formed his long tail feathers yet and he was calling desperately for some help from Mum or Dad, who we had cut-off from the young'un by virtue of our over-zealous bird chasing. We soon beat a hasty retreat to leave the family to regroup and settle. We also manged to see; White-browed Babbler, Zebra Finch, Redthroat, Southern Whiteface, White-fronted Chat, White-winged Fairywren and more Rufous Fieldwren. But there was another surprise waiting for us beyond the car. We managed to chase up some Slender-billed Thornbills that had much more bold 'tangy' yellow bellies and a brighter lemon -yellow rump when compared to the population/race found along the noerthenr coast of Adelaide. Very handsome indeed!
"..did I say THAT road? Oh,no boy-o...they're on THIS road!"
Next stop, and our camp for the evening, was at the northern end of Lake Gilles Conservation Park. Here the Mallee dominates with many taller trees present, a nice change from the much less inviting look of Iron Knob and surrounds. This is a great spot and highly recommended for anyone who likes their camping to be people and generator-free...not another soul within cooee, nice! Despite having driven all of that way and birding like speed-fuelled junkies, Mike and I still managed to spot a bunch a beaut birds before sundown. Rufous Treecreeper, Restless Flycatcher, Jacky Winter and Crested Bellbird were among the many birds we feasted our tired eyes upon. As we ate and then quickly retreated to our tents, we were treated to the sound of a Boobook Owl calling and the screech of an Owlet Nightjar off in the distance.
"Can you see any other humans about? No? Good, let's stop here...."
The next morning we set off to explore more of the northern end of the park on foot. We still had to track down a Western Yellow Robin and some Blue-breasted Fairywrens. On our way to find these birds we were again treated to great views of Rufous Treecreeper, Jacky Winter, White-eared, White-fronted, Yellow-plumed and Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters and finally a lone Western Yellow Robin. We did stumble upon another large gang of Fairywren, with Mike concluding that there were definitely Blue-breasted birds among them, but I was feeling totally fried! I will have to give them another go some other time...
Lake Gilles CP, Northern Section
Before leaving the area we decided to take a look at the southern portion of the park and followed a road the lead 10km's to Lake Gilles proper. Here we stumbled across a veritable 'festival' of birds. The species present here all seemed to be in plague numbers! We were swooped by Port Lincoln Parrots who decided to get better views of us by flying at our faces! Woodswallows were everywhere, as too were Common Bronzewing, Tree Martin and a few more Restless Flycatchers thrown in for good measure. It was a nice spot and would be well worth returning to to give the outer edges of the lake a good going over...I just know some Scarlet-chested, Princess or Night Parrots were smugly watching us from the other side of the lake...
Lake Gilles CP, southern section
So, that was the 'west', more or less...we fuelled up in Kimba and then almost drove into a Godzilla-esque Galah on the road out of town. Mike quickly identified the offending Cocky as a young, female bird...possibly the progeny of a Cassowary and Galah blind date gone awry....
"Looook into my eyes! Looook into my eyes!"
Our last stop on the way home was a brief 'hot chip' refill complete with great views of Banded Stilt and Red-necked Avocet at Bird Lake in the industrial wonderland just south of Port Augusta. Chips in one hand, scope in the other, viewing birds from the carpark of a BP service station. A strangely pleasurable way to complete a frenetic 48 hours of birding.
Wati Tjulpu
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